The Atlanta Journal and Constitution, May 3, 1993, by Jeffry Scott "Grounds for Romance A man, a woman, a cup of coffee - what could be more stimulating? The Taster's Choice commercials keep the intrigue perking along by slowly turning up the heat." ----------------------------------------------------------- Will they or won't they? That may be the commercial question of the '90s - about, of course, the Taster's Choice couple. For two years and through seven episodes of the serial television campaign (the latest spot airs at 10 tonight during "Northern Exposure" on WAGA/Channel 5 [59241]), the sophisticated pair - whose names viewers have never heard - have been mooning over mocha without so much as a peck on the cheek. It's enough to drive some people and dogs nuts. "Our 10-year-old miniature Dachshund loves [your commercial]," an Atlanta couple wrote the company recently. "Each time [it airs] and the lady rings the doorbell, Beauregard runs to our front door. . . . Your commercial hits the mark, and you have three permanent customers." It's not such a hit with some in the local advertising community. But perhaps that's because the commercials feel too much like your father's Oldsmobile (no jump-cuts, no loud graphics, no scrolling type that keeps changing on the off-chance you might actually be able to read it). "It's disgusting," scoffs Bryan Lahr, an Atlanta advertising creative director. The ads are too smaltzy for his taste - which, admittedly, runs a little to the bizarre. (He once did a commercial for Rhodes Furniture featuring a guy with a flamethrower torching a stack of couches.) But if it's disgusting to some, it's a hit to most. Last year the Taster's Choice campaign was America's 10th most popular, up from 16th the year before, according to New York-based Video Story Boards Tests Inc. What's happening here? The campaign is a success, say psychologists, because of the tenor of the times. The population is aging. AIDS is a growing fear. And the country is returning to traditional values in the wake of the Roaring '80s and a sputtering recession. If sex in the '70s and '80s was a beer commercial, in the '90s it's instant coffee and slow - maybe no - gratification. "We're in a time now where romance is very important," says Carol Moog, a Philadelphia-based psychologist and consultant to the advertising industry. "People are taking more time in relationships at various ages, and they're relying more on fantasy than acting out their sexual impulses. . . . Romance has a strong appeal because it's not rushed." That's what tipped Nestle to the idea, according to Taster's Choice product manager Heidi Neroni. "Our research showed us the role coffee plays in developing relationships. People always use coffee as an excuse to sit down and talk and make future plans." That, and the fact that the campaign was already a huge hit in Britain. There the ads have been running for five years through 11 episodes, and feature the same British actors - Anthony Head and Sharon Maughan - playing the same unnamed characters, in identical roles for Gold Blend coffee, the British version of Taster's Choice. The campaign has so captivated Brits that when word leaked out that in the 11th episode he would tell her he loved her, the country's biggest tabloid, The Sun, splashed it across the front page under a huge headline: "I Luv You. At Last, The Words All Gold Blend Drinkers Have Waited Five Years For." The commercials even inspired a paperback novel, "Love Over Gold - the Untold Story of TV's Greatest Romance." The 342- page pulp romance (the characters are named Matthew Prescott and Alexandra Maitland) was written by a British detective- novel writer under the pen name Susannah James. It shot to No. 7 on the British best-seller lists shortly after its December publication. "Love Over Gold" answered the question, "Will they, or won't they?" in the last paragraph on the last page. ("As Matt drew her closer, feeling the warmth of her, pulling at the satin ribbon around her waist. . . . ") Critics didn't warm to Matt and Alexandra quite as much as the characters did to each other. "Banal," was one's appraisal of the book. "Heavy on the yuck factor," wrote another. But at least one person, Allan Allbeury, loved it. Mr. Allbuery's critique: "A delight." If you hadn't guessed, Mr. Allbuery is head of publicity for Nestle in the United Kingdom and a man with plenty of reason to rave. Since the Gold Blend campaign began three years ago, sales have jumped 40 percent. "The whole thing is a total tease," effuses the executive. "Every single episode, the whole thing is left up in the air - will they get together or won't they?" But it's a clean tease, the publicist emphasizes. "It's unashamed romance and no sleaze," he says. "That's appealing, especially to women. And, of course, they're the ones that decide what goes in the shopping basket, aren't they?" For their part, Nestle officials in America would rather not compare the campaign here to the campaign there. "I really want to stress that they are different campaigns," says Amy Brown, Nestle's U.S. spokeswoman. Or rather, they will be. So far, the scenes in the ads have been nearly identical, with only a few words changed in the dialogue. Lisa Fortini-Campbell, a professor of marketing at the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University, argues that the campaign's power isn't so much its content as its soap-opera format. "There's a sense of mystery and intrigue that pulls you in," she says. Dr. Moog says the reason the campaign has had no imitators is that coffee fits neatly as a prop in the drama, and few other products can do that. "It doesn't feel like a commercial," she says. But does it feel like true love? Will they or won't they? "In terms of the length of the campaign, we don't have a planned ending to it," dodges Ms. Neroni of Nestle. But she promises nothing "raunchy." "They're taking it slow and sophisticated," she says. Photos: Color Photo: Part1 They meet when she, hosting a dinner party, runs out of coffee, and pops next door to borrow some from a handsome neighbor. Color Photo: Part 2 She pops back, and he's entertaining (Another woman?) She returns the coffee. "How can you ever thank me?" He askes slyly. Color Photo: Part 3 He arrives late for dinner at his sister's. Guess who's there? He invites her out the next night, enticing her with coffee. Color Photo: Part 4 She invites him over after their date. He lingers syaing he loves her coffee. "Then by all means," she says "take it with you." Color Photo: Part 5 He stops by Another man answers the door; "You want the lady of the house? She's getting changed." He leaves, dejected. Color Photo: Part 6 She encounters him and explains that the mystery man was her brother. Later, he calls to hint that she join him in Paris. Color Photo: "Love Over Gold" is a best seller in Britain. ----------------------------------------------------------- Bentley's Bedlam http://www.BetsyDa.com/bedlam.html This website is for information and entertainment purposes only and is not intended to infringe on copyrights held by others.